What rooting method are you using?

[Figs4all]

Hi. I am curious what rooting method people like to use and when do you start?

I Like to root December/January and I like to try different methods. Deep water cloning was a cool way to develop monster roots and I might try it again. I am definitely going to try a modified fig pop method that uses tree pots and larger bags. I have done fig pops before and the smaller the bag the more careful you need to be with watering, so I am trying bigger bags and will be using a 4x9 tree pot this time. This will skip the up-pot step and I can store the trees as long as I need to in a tree pot.

 

[Figology]

I’ve been pre-rooting in a humidity dome with the temp at 76F. I’ll transfer to a tree pot or cup once I see bulging on the cutting. This has been pretty effective for me.

 

[Shaft]

I avoid humidity domes like most people avoid COVID. I do not do not DO NOT use them.

I root in 3x8s and 4x9s, depending on if I expect a thing to have a long taproot

I root all year. I've already started for this winter, and I'll be going until the beginnings of spring, when I'll move my operation back into the outdoors.

I don't use pro mix -- I never have, it might be good but I use this instead: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Just-Natur...6OXh0UclatvpWOjZohxoCgt8QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

[Maria F]

Hi. I am curious what rooting method people like to use and when do you start?

I Like to root December/January and I like to try different methods. Deep water cloning was a cool way to develop monster roots and I might try it again. I am definitely going to try a modified fig pop method that uses tree pots and larger bags. I have done fig pops before and the smaller the bag the more careful you need to be with watering, so I am trying bigger bags and will be using a 4x9 tree pot this time. This will skip the up-pot step and I can store the trees as long as I need to in a tree pot.

I never heard about it, I’m new and learning, how do you do it? Thanks.

 

[Shaft]

I never heard about it, I’m new and learning, how do you do it? Thanks.

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ep0cijszjLc&ab_channel=MikeKincaid

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XZS3JYWvVz4&ab_channel=JSacadura

 

[jmrtsus]

I have tried many ways and I now use what my Mom taught me years ago, like 60 years ago! I now root in tap water in old pickle jars on the East facing kitchen window sill over the sink. 8-10 cuttings per jar at first. The pickle jars have large openings and are easy to clean and bleach. I get to see what the plants are doing multiple times a day. Once I have a few inches of roots the cutting gets their own smaller jar then moved to a trade gallon pot with a silver thermal wrap and direct sun outside until given away. 1.5 to 3 foot by late August if put in water in early April. Lots more to know to make it work. I love seeing the cutting and watching for issues and growth. My success rate is better than the soil and cups plus no gnats!

 

[Shaft]

I have tried many ways and I now use what my Mom taught me years ago, like 60 years ago! I now root in tap water in old pickle jars on the East facing kitchen window sill over the sink. 8-10 cuttings per jar at first. The pickle jars have large openings and are easy to clean and bleach. I get to see what the plants are doing multiple times a day. Once I have a few inches of roots the cutting gets their own smaller jar then moved to a trade gallon pot with a silver thermal wrap and direct sun outside until given away. 1.5 to 3 foot by late August if put in water in early April. Lots more to know to make it work. I love seeing the cutting and watching for issues and growth. My success rate is better than the soil and cups plus no gnats!

that's awesome I've heard of people doing this. How often do you change the water

 

[Figology]

I avoid humidity domes like most people avoid COVID. I do not do not DO NOT use them.

I root in 3x8s and 4x9s, depending on if I expect a thing to have a long taproot

I root all year. I've already started for this winter, and I'll be going until the beginnings of spring, when I'll move my operation back into the outdoors.

I don't use pro mix -- I never have, it might be good but I use this instead: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Just-Natur...6OXh0UclatvpWOjZohxoCgt8QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Keep in mind, plants that develop leaves are the ones that have trouble adjusting to lower humidity. If there’s roots and no vegetation, no acclamation is needed- at least for me. I’ve had root development 2-3 weeks faster in the dark and high humidity. I saw a professional nursery doing it this way with excellent results.

 

[jmrtsus]

I love tip cuttings as they will almost always leaf prior to rooting as the buds are already formed. I prefer tip cuttings because I believe roots formed with leaves supplementing the energy in the "stick" makes more roots and stronger plant Did an experiment a few years ago I too two 18 inch long suckers cut them in half and planted them. After 6 months the tip cuttings were taller and more leaves. So with those cuttings from the same tree, rooted the same and same light and care had better growth for me on the tip cuttings. Will it be the same for you? Not if your conditions are differing from mine. So find what works for you!
I also like that the trunk does not have that low to the ground offset and weak spot. As to adjusting to light or humidity in the South Central states humidity is seldom lacking. and my cuttings are born into 3-4 hours of morning sunlight with UV and IR rays filtered by insulated windows. We each have out challenges to rooting but humidity is not one we suffer with in the South Central area unless you have a serious whole house dehydrator like my Daughter who wonders why she can't keep house plants alive, LOL! Looking at my weather station humidity is currently 26% outdoors and 49% indoors. Spring and summer it is like 90/90! Cuttings I keep for myself are always tip cuttings, I've seen budding in under 2 weeks on my window sill. I need upright trees due to spacing , if I wanted a bush/shrub type I would use a non tip cutting to promote side growth.

 

[Shaft]

I love tip cuttings as they will almost always leaf prior to rooting as the buds are already formed. I prefer tip cuttings because I believe roots formed with leaves supplementing the energy in the "stick" makes more roots and stronger plant Did an experiment a few years ago I too two 18 inch long suckers cut them in half and planted them. After 6 months the tip cuttings were taller and more leaves. So with those cuttings from the same tree, rooted the same and same light and care had better growth for me on the tip cuttings. Will it be the same for you? Not if your conditions are differing from mine. So find what works for you!
I also like that the trunk does not have that low to the ground offset and weak spot. As to adjusting to light or humidity in the South Central states humidity is seldom lacking. and my cuttings are born into 3-4 hours of morning sunlight with UV and IR rays filtered by insulated windows. We each have out challenges to rooting but humidity is not one we suffer with in the South Central area unless you have a serious whole house dehydrator like my Daughter who wonders why she can't keep house plants alive, LOL! Looking at my weather station humidity is currently 26% outdoors and 49% indoors. Spring and summer it is like 90/90! Cuttings I keep for myself are always tip cuttings, I've seen budding in under 2 weeks on my window sill. I need upright trees due to spacing , if I wanted a bush/shrub type I would use a non tip cutting to promote side growth.

I learn so much every time I read one of your posts John!

So I had heard that leaves before roots was a guaranteed death sentence. You're telling me it's not, and I believe you. Could you tell me more? I prefer upright trees myself!

 

[Rigo007]

I'm in South Florida so we can root just about anytime of the year. I make my own simple mix out of peat or coco coir with perlite and sometimes a little soil just to keep things tight and moist longer. There really not much more required here.

 

[IzzyBe]

I am trying to root a few cuttings for the first time using the water method. I watched South Georgia Figs on You Tube and that guy roots all his cuttings in water. So I thought I would try it. However, I heard that the transition from water roots to soil is not very successful. Any input on how to not kill my cuttings?

 

[Figology]

I am trying to root a few cuttings for the first time using the water method. I watched South Georgia Figs on You Tube and that guy roots all his cuttings in water. So I thought I would try it. However, I heard that the transition from water roots to soil is not very successful. Any input on how to not kill my cuttings?

I’ve had good success with transplanting cuttings from water to soil when I first see any root formation. Usually the cuttings will have white stuff coming out of the lenticels before the roots follow.

 

[IzzyBe]

Good to know. I will try that. I have 3 rooting in chamomile tea and willow right now. Not much happening right now but I will be watching for the lenticels. Thank you.

 

[Shaft]

I am so new to the idea of water propagation that I couldn't really comment. I would say that, since we know water roots and soil roots do different things and thrive in different environments, you probably want to switch it ASAP so it's not wasting energy. That said, if that doesn't work, go the opposite way -- let them get super huge.

If you have 6 of the same cutting rooting, do 2 with small roots, 2 with large roots, and 2 in between. Post your results.

 

[IzzyBe]

I am so new to the idea of water propagation that I couldn't really comment. I would say that, since we know water roots and soil roots do different things and thrive in different environments, you probably want to switch it ASAP so it's not wasting energy. That said, if that doesn't work, go the opposite way -- let them get super huge.

If you have 6 of the same cutting rooting, do 2 with small roots, 2 with large roots, and 2 in between. Post your results.

I will have to watch and report.

 

[IzzyBe]

I have tried many ways and I now use what my Mom taught me years ago, like 60 years ago! I now root in tap water in old pickle jars on the East facing kitchen window sill over the sink. 8-10 cuttings per jar at first. The pickle jars have large openings and are easy to clean and bleach. I get to see what the plants are doing multiple times a day. Once I have a few inches of roots the cutting gets their own smaller jar then moved to a trade gallon pot with a silver thermal wrap and direct sun outside until given away. 1.5 to 3 foot by late August if put in water in early April. Lots more to know to make it work. I love seeing the cutting and watching for issues and growth. My success rate is better than the soil and cups plus no gnats!

How do you transition to soil without killing the trees when potting?

 

[jmrtsus]

Transition is easy if you know the secret!

The Secret: take a potting mix that is without things like pine bark or large Perlite stones. Then sun dry it to DUST! Really dust dry! Then put bark or like I use closed cell Styrofoam for lightness on the bottom of your well drilled container for drainage followed by about 2-3 inches of mix. I use MG garden soil 2:1 with Perlite. Hold your rooted cutting on the base soil and poor the dry mix gently around the roots to almost the top of your container. DO NOT PRESS the soil down! Then place in a bowl or container with about 1 inch of water and allow it to soak from bottom to top. That's all....let it slowly dry so the roots that were used to all water adjust to just moisture not sopping wet. After that treat them like any cutting. Way to many people want to uproot with damp soil and harm the roots with the weight.

 

[IzzyBe]

Thank you. I will try that after my cuttings form roots. Still waiting for that to happen.